The road to Mestia wound through gorges, the air growing sharp as we climbed. When I stepped off the bus, the town unfolded before me—a cluster of stone houses dwarfed by snow-dusted peaks. Towers, tall and ancient, stood like guardians, their weathered stones etched with centuries of wind and war. I felt like an intruder in a place that belongs to itself, yet the warmth of a local’s smile—a woman selling churchkhela by the roadside—eased my heart. “Welcome to Svaneti,” she said, handing me a string of walnut-dipped candy. “Walk softly here.” Her words set the tone for my journey.

Into the Highlands

My first trek was to Ushguli, one of Europe’s highest inhabited villages, a four-hour hike from Mestia along trails that hugged cliffs and crossed alpine meadows. The path was rugged, my boots crunching on shale, but the views—emerald valleys framed by peaks like Shkhara, Georgia’s tallest—made every step sacred. In Ushguli, stone towers loomed over mud-brick homes, their narrow windows like eyes watching the ages pass. I visited Lamaria Church, a 9th-century shrine perched on a hill, its frescoes faded but alive with saints and stories. Inside, the air was thick with incense and silence, and I lit a candle, not for faith but for the hands that built this place.

The next day, I hiked to the Shkhara Glacier, a frozen river gleaming under the sun. The trail was punishing—steep ascents and icy streams—but the glacier’s blue heart, cradled by cliffs, was worth every ache. I sat on a boulder, sketching the ice in my journal, its cracks like veins of a living earth. A local guide, Giorgi, joined me, his face carved by years in these mountains. Over a flask of chacha, Svaneti’s fiery spirit, he told me of the towers—built by families to defend against invaders and avalanches, each a testament to Svan pride. “We’re free here,” he said, gesturing to the peaks. “Always have been.”

In Mestia, I explored the Margiani House Museum, a restored tower where I climbed narrow ladders to rooms filled with woven rugs and iron tools. The curator, an elder named Lela, shared stories of Svaneti’s past—feuds settled by blood, churches as sanctuaries during raids. Her voice carried the weight of generations, and I wrote her words in my journal: “The mountains keep us safe, but they also keep our secrets.”

Stories in Stone

Svaneti is a land of resilience, its towers and churches standing against time’s relentless march. Each village I passed—Adishi, Latali, Mulakhi—felt like a chapter in a saga, its people as rooted as the mountains. One evening, in a homestay in Ushguli, I shared khachapuri and tarragon wine with a family who sang polyphonic songs, their voices weaving through the room like a spell. The mother, Nino, spoke of Svaneti’s soul: “We build high because we live high. The mountains are our home, our god.” I felt it—their fierce love for this land, their refusal to bend.

The churches, too, held stories. At St. George’s in Adishi, I traced frescoes of warriors and angels, their colors dulled but defiant. These were not just places of worship but refuges, where Svans hid icons during Soviet purges. I stood in their shadow, the wind howling outside, and felt the weight of history, of a people who’ve carved their lives from stone.

A Guide to Svaneti’s Highlands

For those drawn to Georgia’s wild heart, here’s how to explore Svaneti:

Getting There: Fly into Tbilisi or Kutaisi, then take a minibus or private car to Mestia (8-10 hours from Tbilisi, 4-5 from Kutaisi). For Ushguli, book a 4x4 or hike from Mestia. Marshrutkas (shared vans) are budget-friendly but slow.

Best Time to Visit: May to September offers milder weather and open trails. June and July bring wildflower meadows; winter (December-March) is for skiers but limits hiking.

What to Pack: Sturdy hiking boots, layered clothing (temperatures range from 5-25°C), a waterproof jacket, and a good backpack. Bring a journal or camera for the views. Cash is king—ATMs are scarce.

Must-Do Experiences:

Ushguli and Lamaria Church: Trek or drive to this UNESCO-listed village. Visit the church for its frescoes and solitude.

Shkhara Glacier Hike: A challenging 6-8 hour trek from Mestia. Hire a guide like Giorgi through Svaneti Trekking for safety.

Margiani House Museum (Mestia): Explore a traditional tower for insight into Svan life. Entry is 5 GEL.

Adishi Village: A quieter trek with stunning views and St. George’s Church. Stay in a homestay for authentic meals.

Travel Tips:

Guides: Hire local guides for longer treks—try Svaneti Guide or Mestia Tourism Agency. They know the trails and history.

Safety: Check weather forecasts; sudden storms are common. Carry a first-aid kit and enough water (2-3 liters/day).

Budget: Expect €40-80/day for homestays, meals, and guides. Homestays cost €15-30/night, including meals.

Where to Eat: In Mestia, Café Laila serves khachapuri and lobio (bean stew). In Ushguli, homestays offer home-cooked Svan dishes like kubdari (meat-filled bread). Try chacha, but sip slowly—it’s strong.

Cultural Etiquette: Greet locals with “Gamarjoba” and a smile. Dress modestly in churches (cover shoulders, knees). Ask permission before photographing people or private homes.

Respect the Land: Stick to trails to avoid damaging meadows. Don’t touch frescoes or remove stones from towers.